St. Louis, Missouri: April 2023
It was colder than I originally anticipated. (I don't own a jacket living in AZ, so I think I needed the reality check.) But that's only said for the weather; the people I met were warm like a soft hug and made the city feel like an old friend I was coming to visit. The streets remind me of New York and most cities I've been to, but just like anything, when you search for more, you'll find it every time. St. Louis gave me that.
I shamefully did not know there was anything inside of the famous arch at Gateway Arch National Park, but JEEZ what an amazing and terrifying view. Riding the tram to the top would've been a little easier if it weren't for the windows that showed you the innerworkings of the structure; really fascinating though. The view from the top doesn't look real it's so amazing. No wider than the inside of a subway car, with carpet that makes you nostalgic for the 90's. There's a lot of history that was great to read too. I must've walked the property I don't even know for how long. I knew this national park was in middle of a city, which that alone deserves a visit. After obligatory selfies in front of the arch, it's time to eat.
Sugarfire BBQ blew my frickin' taste buds out of my mouth. I think I lost a few back there...
I wish I could've made it to IKEA to buy a cot so they'd like me stay. I know I didn't include the brisket in the title, but for the love of God make sure you get yourself some if you head to St. Louis. It's every bit of melt-in-your-mouth-magic that any mere mortal could only hope for. Brisket, baked beans not even your momma could make, crunchy coleslaw and a shake that refused to be consumed by straw. Sugarfire's menu is extensive and I intentionally had to walk slowly in line before reaching the counter so I had time to decide what to get. There was a line almost to the door in the middle of a Thursday, I can't imagine this place during bumpin' hours. My heart loves food, but my tiny belly only allows me to eat so much. However, you can bet your ass I sat in that metal restaurant chair until I licked that plate clean. 🙏
The day ends with me checking out the 360 rooftop bar that has an awesome view of the city. I chatted with a man I assume was in his 40's in the elevator on the way up who ended up sitting next to me at the bar. The bartender later thought we were together, this was a tad awkward as I corrected them right away. The bar makes a mean bowl of parmesan fries that I finished on the patio while admiring the city.
Day two and you know what that means: time to walk EVERYWHERE.
I couldn't give you cross streets if I tried, but I saw most parts of the City of St. Louis from the university to one of my favorites, the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis. There are churches wherever you go, but I've never seen one down the street from a gas station that looks like it belongs in Italy. From floor to ceiling, wall to wall, the cathedral is immaculately COVERED in mosaics and artisan tiles. Literally, every inch of it. I'm not kidding. The pillars, archways of the multiple altars and iconography is astounding, I've truly never seen anything like it. Not to mention it's huge. Like massive. To give you an idea, the photo added is of one of the small chapel like areas of the cathedral that reminded me of areas we went to Sunday School as kids. Every design you see is entirely tile. This cathedral was especially neat because the lower level of the basement included a small museum exhibit of historical and religious artifacts from the church and cultures thereof. Beauty doesn't describe it.
As I continue to wander, I come across the Chess Hall of Fame, which I wish I knew how to play cause this would have been really cool. I stopped in the gift shop to check it out but that was about it. Sorry. I eventually end up in both Forest and Tower parks, where the surrounding neighborhood homes are all different and it looks like a place that I want to live. There are faux Roman ruins in one of the parks that is really cool, especially when ducks are chilling on them. You can tell people like to come and relax here with a book. How often do you see that in the middle of the day? I'm so glad I got to.
By now, my feet are probably right in telling me we need to take a break. I'm luckily able to get in touch with a former colleague whom I never get to see in person and catch up at lunch together. ENTER THE LOBSTER ROLL. I googled what food one should make sure they eat while in St. Louis, and the internet told me a lobster roll, so I listened. You should too if you want to be happy in life. I do my research and find this amazing local place called Peacemaker Lobster & Crab. And that's what they do man. The staff made me laugh almost as much as Yolanda did, but the food made my eyes widen and my mouth go silent from salivating. Mind you, I've never tried a lobster roll, and frankly I don't think I'll ever need one that isn't from Peacemaker's, cause frankly my dear I don't know how it could possibly get much better. We rave about the food, talk about how life is good and it feels so great to just TALK without being on a schedule. However much times passes and we say farewell for now, promising to bring this food of seafood and love back into our lives again soon.
I start walking through a neighborhood that reminds me of home, but I can't exactly place where or why. I'm on my way to Full Moon Float at this point, where I'm swapping my bib for a life jacket. I always want to try something I've never done before in new place, and this time it was canoeing on the Mississippi River. I found this amazing local company called Big Muddy Adventures. What a gem man. These guys plan everything from the canoeing excursion, to a sunset turned full moon beach hangout with a gourmet meal cooked over a campfire. Have you ever tried beef tenderloin cooked over an open fire? I have now, and it came with a veggie tart, whatever the hell that is. And it was amazing.
As if it's even possible, the biggest thing that impacted me from this particular voyage wasn't the amazing day of fresh air and getting splashed by nature. It was the little beach full of maybe a dozen St. Louis transplants that I met around a campfire under the moon. One couple had offered me a drink (sealed of course) from their cooler and a girl about my age offered me a spare jacket of hers as it began to get dark. The kindness was just spilling everywhere like water being sprayed on the sand. The lot of us just talked for hours of where we'd come from and what life was like, whether it was across the river or across the sea. I met someone from all over on that beach, some from the UK, some that were St Louis transplants of 20 years, some travelers like I, but I was the only one going solo, which seemed a little extra special to me. I'll never forget those two canoes full of good people and the way the water looked as it sparkled with my paddle in the night air.
Cafe de Blaire greeted me on my last day in the city with a steaming caramel macchiato and bacon, egg and cheese. This felt like home too, but way friendlier than the delis I know. The woman working the counter was part of the couple that owned the little coffee shop, who went on to tell me that it was named for their daughter who's picture was everywhere. You could tell it was a real labor of love. Every other local that walked in knew the owner and chatted about their mornings getting started. It just put an immediate smile on my face each time it happened, where I then had to try and hide my expression behind my takeout cup. As I was getting ready to leave, the shop owner stops by my table and asks if I've ever tried butter cake ice cream, that they happen to make in house. She gave me a tiny little cup to sample from her heart to mine and it was the gooiest, most love filled ice cream I've ever had out of a paper solo cup.
At some point during these two days, I was told fried ravioli was the thing to have in St. Louis. Thanks to poor planning and not being able to read open hours on search engines on my end, I didn't get to try the place I originally wanted, but Joey B's Italian was a great next choice. Short, sweet and to the point, a local bar & grill joint that anyone would wander into the middle of a Friday afternoon. This place was in the city's version of Little Italy, and even though I'm not Italian, this too felt like home.
As I moseyed on, the Missouri Botanical Gardens were calling my name, though we had never met. I had passed by them once before while wandering about and something told me to come back. One would think that most citys' botanical gardens are about the same. Flowers, plants, an overpriced gift shop, what have you. You call it a day. Denver, I love you, but Missouri's made me feel something just as special.
A jungle doesn't begin to describe it. Name any exotic flower or plant, and it was most likely at this garden. Choosing a photo for this one in particular was a several minute conversation with myself, but we landed on this one (there are waterfalls in Missouri, right?). Huge doesn't really begin to describe it, but let's just say there's a lot to see here. Don't underestimate this place thinking you'll be in and out in an hour. I had a tour set to see the Budweiser Clydesdales (we'll get there) and thought I'd be outta here in an hour. I came back later in the day because I wasn't about to miss out on what nature had to say. With endless winding paths and a different vibe to be found in every part of the property, it's a wonderful place to see, especially to teach the next generation about preserving the earth. MBG, thanks for letting me hang out in your dome way longer than I should have. You've got a good head on your shoulders.
It's already been a great day, but I didn't know it was about to get even better.
I grab a Lyft from the gardens to Grant's Farm in a mad dash to make it to my tour of the Clydesdale horses in time. The farm is towards the end of the suburban area of town, and as we drive I get to know the driver. I'm upset that I can't remember her name, but I'm so grateful for how she made me feel, and that will stay with me. In what was maybe a 30-ish minute drive to the farm, we talk about human kindness and how the world not only needs more of it, but that it does in fact still exist. Our values seemed very much in alignment with each other and that made my heart happy, I loved that conversation. We move on to the usual "who you are, where are ya headed?" as we approach my destination and she goes on to give me a few ideas on spots to check out while I'm in town. She tells me anywhere is good for BBQ, and she's right. We reach the farm and as I'm getting out of the car, she hands me a colorful blocked beaded keychain that says "St. Louis" about two inches long. She says she gives these out for those she feels she's connected with and welcomes me to the city. I live to meet more people like you, thank you.
I'm not into beer, but the Budweiser Clydesdales are something out of a storybook.
First off, Grant's Farm is a big property, and they've got the horses to match it. If you haven't heard of the Clydesdales, you've probably seen them on a Budweiser Super Bowl commercial as they're quite famous. For about $30, you not only get a great tour of the farm with a guide chock full of knowledge who clearly loves their job, but you also get up close and personal with the horses. I'm very wary of activities that involve animals as the conditions where the animals live and the way they're treated aren't always humane, but you can tell this place was for real. These guys ate, slept and lived better than most of us will ever. I had to get a photo of their gear, as seen to the right. The guide here was so fun and charismatic and had the coolest accent. She told the group everything there was to know about the horses and the historical significance of the farm. It's a lot of info. The weather was perfect with a breeze you could only feel on a farm. We walked the property and were feet away from the fences that were home to the trotted champions. They're such funny creatures, because you could tell they were just loving being the center of attention and would stare us down on the off chance they were not. We were told they're used to the limelight, so that's where they are until
they retire and happily live the rest of their lives on acres of free pastures. Towards the end of the tour we were given the option to brush one of the horses inside the stables where they're kept. The universe is pretty big, and we're pretty small in theory, but you don't actually understand how small you are in the world until you stand next to a Clydesdale. To say these horses are soft is an understatement. I don't know what shampoo they're using, but I want some. Oh, and I got to hold a cup full of horse teeth. Weird, but cool.
After strolling down the farm's country road for a while, I hitch one more ride before hopping on a flight home.
I was raised by a chocolatier, so we're pretty much chocolate snobs in my family. I'm also a researcher in my spare time, so before coming out I did some digging on some of the best local places for food. One of which was a chocolate shop, It's called Bijoux Chocolates, and it's not for the faint of heart. This local gem founded by a St. Louis local girl gone pro reminded me of my mother. While there, I had a long conversation with an employee about my age who shared a love of the world of fine desserts and chocolate. After sharing I'd be in France the following month, he gave me a recommendation for a 7 Course Dessert Air BnB experience that I wish I had time for. I'm still aching at not being able to follow through on that one. Thank you for the stimulating conversation, backpack full of sugar to take home and ending this journey with God's greatest gift to the world.
And this isn't even everything I did.
St Louis, in two days, you gave me another home. Thanks.
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