Austin, Texas: October 2022
I've walked the Downtown Phoenix area I don't know how many times in ten years. I became an adult here, but the neighboring city of Austin helped me grow up and back down again in two and a half days. We start our 2022 solo trip checking into a local house Air BnB wondering if it'll rain. The neighborhood I'm staying in is a married balance of down to earth and retro feelings and it's so refreshing. There's street art everywhere, that goes on for miles across the city that I have yet to explore. When I walk a city, I see, hear, smell, touch and feel every part to the best of my ability. You may forget some specifics of places you've been, but you never forget how they make you feel. Austin was one of those places for me.
On the Uber drive in from the airport, we pass a little local cafe that goes by the name Cenote. The outside immediately caught my attention with the vintage black and white restaurant sign and the big outdoor table/garden space that's fenced off. I ordered way too much food but found that was a happy mistake as it was amazing. Even on a cloudy day, this place makes you feel sunny inside in more ways than one.
Day turns into night, and I wander down Rainey St. which is the hip and happening part of town where all the kids go out at night. I walk the long street filled with restaurants, bars, cafes and clubs and tell myself I'm going to go into one, even though it's not really my scene. "Do something new" my insides whisper. I'm nearing the end of the street and right before the road ends, I see the rooftop sign for The Tipsy Alchemist. I climb a flight of stairs excitedly to this cool industrial/modern bar straight from the street has lamps hanging from the ceiling. Mind you, it's a Thursday night and people have jobs, so save myself and two other people, the place is pretty quite. That didn't stop the bartender (I want to say his name was Jose) from giving me the royal treatment. This happy mad scientist has a concoction up his sleeve that I'm hesitant to try, so after a normal drink they call the Loma Linda (which was awesome), I go for the Jalapeno Margarita. Man am I glad I did. I'm a wimp with spice, my white girl taste buds can't handle it but my heart wants it. This margarita was pure fire with a capital F. It had the most amazing balance of sweet and spice. You're the man Alchemist. We have a great back and forth banter session and I'm happy. Before I leave, another one of the bartenders tells me my drinks' been paid for by the other two guys who were in the bar before me (it wasn't creepy, ok?). They left before I could say thank you, but I'm still grateful for the ice cold welcome to Austin.
The next day, time to get the sneakers on and make tracks. Austin seems to be the place for counter cafes, so first on my stop is Paper Boy. The place is packed, even for an early riser like me and the scent of mixed coffee and bacon fills the medium sized counter style room. By what is nothing short of an act of God, there's ONE stool at the counter and I sit just before it starts raining. Where do I begin with this place... The most perfect lemonade I've ever had (the pic shows the second one), apple butter with fresh baked bread and a plate full of food. Just, thank you 🙏I watch the rain come down try not to make too much awkward eye contact with the nice people behind the counter, but their smiles are so welcome.
Next up, we're off to the world renowned Austin Central Library. Out of the top things to do in Austin, this came up #1 on almost every site I found. I love to read, so this was not one I was about to miss. I get a ride to the center of town and spent HOURS here. Their facility is fantastic. It's the biggest library I've ever seen with a whopping 6 floors, including an outdoor patio/garden space. It looks like something from the Hogwarts castle (I bet this is where they got the idea). At any moment I think the staircases are going to start moving. There are tons of community classes and activities led for free which gives me joy to know. While I visited, I came across a little table on one of the middle floors where one could make a paper flower out of newspaper for the community Ofrenda. It wasn't as nice as the others people before me had placed in the basket, but I hope it brightened someone's special place for Dia de los Muertos. I wander the floors and come to probably one of the coolest things I've ever seen. A short story machine. You pick a short story that is 1, 3 or 5 minutes long and the machine will print it on what looks like a CVS receipt for you to take home. So freaking cool. In addition to the rooftop area, the library has a "quiet room" which is basically a massive conference room with closed doors, couches, chairs that look like their straight out the Jetson's with floor to ceiling windows. Let's just say I didn't get much reading done due to the view.
I walk on from the library and come across the ATX sign, waterloo records, a random bookstore I can't remember the name of but it was really cool, and then, the crown jewel of Texas' political heart: The State Capital. I don't really keep up with politics, but this was a great stop for anyone just for the sheer grandeur of the building and campus. The Texas State Capital is an enormous building that is big, beautiful and ornate.
The wandering continues, and brings me to Pease Park where there's a giant circular globe, cage? That's the best way to explain it. There's a trampoline in the center of it and it's elevated off the ground, not quite second story but tall enough where a normal person can't reach without a step stool. The park also has these huge jungle gyms and there are kids scattered about playing. At this point, I haven't talked about food NEARLY enough, so I'll do so with some of the best BBQ around. La Barbecue has a line out the door most days and it's so clear why when you try the food. I had the brisket chili and it was great, but didn't get my brisket fix. I went back to the counter and got a lone piece of brisket. after about five seconds, I realized I had made a mistake but not ordering more than one. I asked the nice dude behind the counter for a second after I had paid, and he was cool enough to give me the second piece for free under the radar. I had the intention of taking the second piece home to my then fiance, but it never would have made it due to the paper wrapper it came in, so it's safe to say I scarfed it down. Sorry J. I sit at the counter and wonder what kind of lives those walking down the street from the tall windows. There's street art all over the city, I must have taken a million photos of it, including across the road from where I'm sitting inside.
The night soon arrives and after what I thought would be staying in for the night, turns into my wonderful human convincing me from my home away from home bed to go out and see the Congress Bridge Bats as they can be seen and heard flying by the water. It's times like that you're grateful to have someone push you in the right ways. The tiny excited screeches are everywhere, and there's not coming from just the bats. There are dozens of people here of all ages. I can hear parents and grandparents reading the signs of things to know about bats and how to be respectful. It's really nice to hear.
What the city lights look like on the water and hanging in the air by tall metal buildings is something to see. I always loved cities at night. I climb the stairs to the base of the bridge and walk across through the chilly night air remembering slightly what seasons are like since we don't really have them at home. And since I brought a jacket, I let my feet decide the direction we go and wander on a few miles before getting a lift back for the night.
It's the last day in town and Austin takes me to the Counter Cafe. Don't ever underestimate a food establishment with a simple name, they're often the best. It's here that I consume the greatest orange juice of my lifetime. I don't know where they got their oranges, but they can't be from this world. Their fried chicken and biscuit sandwich was crunchy, juicy and homemade in all the right ways, and hearing strangers talk with other strangers about politics just makes you smile somehow.
I hear Lady Bird Lake is a top place to see while in Austin, so with sore legs and a lot of greenery, I walked all of it. I don't know how many miles the boardwalk is but it's a great walk. The water sparkles with the sun and the buildings and everyone from average Joe locals to tourists from around the world. The boardwalk is so wide that pedestrians on wheels and foot have their own lanes. The views of the city from this vantage point is beautiful. Some other time fillers that brought more smiles included a BBQ food truck with bomb mac n cheese, and a Greek cafe that reminded me of Oasis. Amongst them are the Umlauf Sculpture Gardens that spoke in hushed and eerie voices. Another beautiful place as I near the end of my experience here. A line that stays with me is a quote from the museum Charles Umlauf's garden: "I wanted to show her youth and beauty and not cover it up completely as has been done too often in past centuries... as though she wasn't a human being.". He says these words as I read through the museum and explains creating a favorite sculpture of his and how some tried to censor it, but he didn't accept it. This rang out like a bell that should be heard everywhere, whatever it means to you. It sang to me and I hope it gets an amplifier for those who haven't yet heard Umlauf.
Everything in Texas is bigger in my heart thanks to you Austin. Thank you.
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